They seemed to evoke disenfranchised '90s youth, who might have wandered the disused railtracks. Guests watched from the platform onto the Petite Ceinture, or Little Belt, railway - a thirty-kilometer track circling the city.įrayed white jeans, distressed denim, hiking sneakers, industrial-looking baseball caps, boiler suits and workman's aprons mixed with utilitarian toggles and straps. Paris was a logical starting point for this French brand - albeit here the "lesser-known Paris" was what the house said it was channeling.
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It was the first in an upcoming series of site-specific shows, which use a location, or an environment, for design inspiration. The brand name itself is global - borrowed from the iconic photo of the Earth taken in 1972 by the Apollo 17 crew.ĭesign triumvirate Jose Lamali, Jeremie Egry and Aurelien Arbet at Etudes used an abandoned railway on the outskirts of Paris as the setting - and creative springboard - for an urban-themed display. Ethnic shirts mixed with silken varsity bombers, and tied leopard foulards that looked both ready for safari and a rock concert. The collection celebrated this globe-trotting vision. Alvarez is New York-born with a mixture of Filipino, Spanish, French and Italian roots. It came among baggy jeans with rhinestoned four-leaf clovers.īut this show also harked from the designer's rich heritage. An '80s pajama pant look was responsible for one of the collection's best looks, in pearly white. Multicolored loose pants, with BLUEMARBLE printed across, met an acid yellow-green oversize coat with a marbled texture. Streetwear and tailoring collided in a melting-pot of a show by designer Anthony Alvarez, who counts Justin Bieber among his clients.Īlvarez is one to watch - with his fashion repertoire for the MTV generation mixing travel with urban wear and bright eye-popping color.įor spring-summer, he turned up the psychedelia to produce a flashy, loose fitting collection. The boat's decor comprises rattan furniture and parasols in blue toile de jouy, an Dior pattern reinterpreted by current designer Maria Grazia Chiuri,
This season, Dior is teaming up with Cheval Blanc Paris to create its own vision of the cruising spa, with a capacity for five passengers in four suites for a two-hour journey across the Seine River. The spa, which was called Bains de la Samaritaine, was reputed to be Western Europe's most luxurious at the time and the mother of modern luxury spas. Marking haute couture week, Dior is reviving a floating 19th century spa that existed on an elegant barge at the Pont-Neuf bridge.
Still, the tailoring was strong throughout - as expected for the house - for instance in one broad, '80s black tailored coat that cut a fine shape. For instance, one simple pink sweat suit, worn open on a bare chest with gold chain, did not quite feel developed enough an idea for the high fashion runway. I could see the guy in each look existing on the street - for me that's a really modern approach."īut at times this everyday vibe let the collection down. Williams said of his collection backstage that "everything is grounded in reality. Elsewhere, the street styles of California mixed with preppy styles, such as torn tailored pants. The bomber jackets with laser-cut house logos that opened the show were inspired by those the designer used to admire in Harlem, New York. Observations from Williams' past produced many of the looks. These looks were defined by long and loose silhouettes, frayed hems, thick chains and fearsome facemasks. The muse this season was the style of Jamaican Reggae singer Alkaline, who worked on the show soundtrack. The American designer, the former collaborator of Lady Gaga and Kanye West, brought his streetwear vibe again to the haute Paris runway. Williams' vision is urban, sports-infused and pared down. This was the high-fashion Givenchy of Audrey Hepburn in name only. Here are some highlights of Wednesday's spring-summer 2023 shows: But did the American designer dive deep enough? Williams clearly wanted to make a splash in his first standalone menswear show since being appointed in 2020. PARIS - For the first major collection of Paris Fashion Week's menswear season, Givenchy's models walked on water.Ī giant font filled with milky-white water and frothing mist in the courtyard of the Ecole Militaire served as a fluid runway where models, often bare-chested and in waterproof footwear, stomped and splashed toward a blinding set light.
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